Plav: Montenegro's Mountain Lake Town at the Edge of the Accursed Mountains

Plav: Where the Accursed Mountains Meet the Lake

Plav is a small mountain town in northeastern Montenegro, dramatically positioned on the shores of Plav Lake (Plavsko Jezero) at an altitude of 906 metres. Backed by the soaring, snow-streaked peaks of the Prokletije Mountains — known in English as the "Accursed Mountains" — Plav is one of Montenegro's most remote and scenically stunning destinations. The town has a distinctive character shaped by centuries of Montenegrin, Albanian, and Bosniak cultural influences, making it feel unlike anywhere else in the country. Mosques and churches stand within walking distance, Turkish-style bazaar streets mix with Yugoslav-era buildings, and the surrounding countryside echoes with pastoral traditions that have endured for centuries.

For adventurous travellers, Plav is the gateway to Prokletije National Park, Montenegro's newest national park (established in 2009) and home to some of the wildest, most dramatic alpine terrain in the entire Balkans. With pristine glacial lakes hidden in high cirques, towering peaks exceeding 2,500 metres, and virtually empty hiking trails through landscapes that feel more like Patagonia than Europe, the Plav region richly rewards those willing to venture off the beaten path. This is frontier travel in the best sense — challenging, authentic, and unforgettable.

A Brief History of Plav

The Plav area has been inhabited since antiquity, with archaeological evidence of Illyrian settlements in the surrounding mountains. The name Plav derives from the Slavic word for "blue" or "flooded," referring to the lake that dominates the landscape. During the medieval Serbian state, the region was part of the broader Raškan territory, and several medieval churches and monasteries dotted the surrounding valleys.

Ottoman rule, which lasted from the 15th century until 1913, profoundly shaped Plav's character. Unlike much of Montenegro, which fiercely resisted Ottoman control, the Plav basin was firmly integrated into the Ottoman system. Many local families converted to Islam, and the town developed a distinctly Ottoman character with mosques, bazaars, and tower houses. The Redžepagić family became the most prominent local dynasty, and their fortified tower house (kula) still stands as the town's most important historical monument.

Plav was among the last territories incorporated into Montenegro, joining the kingdom only after the Balkan Wars of 1912-1913. This late incorporation, combined with its geographic isolation, has preserved a cultural identity that remains distinctly different from the rest of Montenegro. The town's multi-ethnic character — with Bosniak, Albanian, and Montenegrin Serb communities living side by side — gives it a cultural richness and complexity that is fascinating to experience.

How to Get There

Plav lies in Montenegro's far northeast, approximately 170 km from Podgorica (3-3.5 hours by car). The most common route follows the E65 highway north from Podgorica through the Morača Canyon to Kolašin, then continues northeast through Andrijevica to Plav. The final 30 km from Andrijevica passes through a beautiful valley with the Prokletije peaks growing progressively more dramatic ahead of you.

An alternative route from Podgorica goes via Berane (approximately the same distance but sometimes faster depending on road conditions). From the coast, Plav is a solid 5-hour drive from Budva or Kotor, making it a destination that requires commitment — but the journey itself, through some of Montenegro's most spectacular mountain scenery, is part of the reward.

Regular bus services run from Podgorica to Plav with 2-3 departures daily (approximately 4 hours, 10-12 euros). Buses also connect Plav to Berane (1 hour) and, less frequently, to Gusinje (15 minutes). The bus station is in the town centre. There is no airport or railway anywhere nearby.

Within Plav, the town centre is compact and easily walkable. A car is essential for exploring the surrounding mountains, lake shores, and the road to Gusinje (10 km south) and the Albanian border beyond. There is no formal car rental in town, so arrange one in Podgorica before driving up. Local taxis operate at very reasonable prices (a trip to Gusinje costs about 5-7 euros).

Best Time to Visit

The hiking and outdoor season runs from June through September, when mountain trails are free of snow and wildflowers blanket the high meadows in extraordinary displays of colour. July and August are warmest, with daytime temperatures of 20-28°C in town, though afternoon thunderstorms are common at altitude and can develop very quickly. June sees the last of the snowmelt filling waterfalls and streams to their fullest.

May and October are transitional months — cooler (10-18°C) but often with clear, stable weather and far fewer visitors. These shoulder months can be excellent for lower-altitude hiking and exploring the lake and town. The Prokletije peaks above 2,000 metres may still have snow patches in early June and can see early snowfall by late September.

Winters are cold and snowy, transforming the area into a dramatic white landscape. Plav receives significant snowfall and temperatures can drop below -15°C. Tourist infrastructure is minimal in the off-season, but for those seeking solitude and winter mountain scenery, it is starkly beautiful. The lake partially freezes in the coldest winters.

Top Things to See and Do

Plav Lake (Plavsko Jezero)

Plav Lake is the largest natural glacial lake in Montenegro, stretching over 2 km in length and up to 9 metres deep, surrounded by mountain meadows and framed by the towering Prokletije peaks. The lake is popular for fishing (it holds trout, carp, and chub), swimming in summer (the water warms to a pleasant 20-22°C by July), and peaceful lakeside walks along the footpath that follows part of the southern shore.

At sunrise, with mist rising from the still water and the mountain reflections crisp in the morning light, Plav Lake is one of the most beautiful sights in Montenegro. Small boats are available for hire on the lakefront, and kayaking is possible though you'll need to bring your own equipment. The lakeshore is also a popular spot for local fishermen, and watching them cast their lines as the sun sets behind the mountains is an evocative end to any day.

Prokletije National Park

Prokletije National Park protects the Montenegrin portion of the Accursed Mountains, a range that extends across Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo with peaks exceeding 2,690 metres (Maja Jezerca, the highest, lies just across the Albanian border). The Montenegrin section includes spectacular glacial cirque lakes, dramatic limestone peaks, alpine meadows, and some of the most pristine wilderness in Europe.

The park's most popular hiking destinations from the Plav side include Hridsko Jezero (Visitor's Lake) — a stunning turquoise cirque lake at 1,970 metres altitude, reachable by a marked trail taking 4-5 hours from the trailhead — and Bukumirsko Jezero (Bukumir Lake), another glacial lake at 1,443 metres. Both hikes require good fitness and proper equipment. The park supports brown bears, wolves, chamois, and golden eagles, and its wildflower meadows in June and July — filled with gentians, orchids, and edelweiss — are among the finest in the Balkans.

The Old Town and Redžepagić Tower

Plav's small Old Town features a charming mix of Ottoman-era wooden houses with protruding upper floors (čardaci), a 16th-century mosque, and narrow bazaar streets. The most important historical monument is the Redžepagić Tower (Kula Redžepagića), a fortified stone tower house dating to the 18th century that once served as the seat of the region's most powerful family. The tower is partially restored and offers a glimpse into the feudal life of the Albanian and Bosniak beys who dominated the region under Ottoman rule.

Walking through the old quarter, you'll notice the multi-ethnic character of Plav — Bosniak, Albanian, and Montenegrin Serb communities have coexisted here for centuries. This cultural mosaic, with its distinct architecture, cuisine, and traditions, gives Plav a richness and depth that is unique in Montenegro.

Peaks of the Balkans Trail

Plav is a key stop on the famous Peaks of the Balkans long-distance trail, a 192 km circular route through Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo that has become one of Europe's most celebrated trekking routes since its inauguration in 2013. The trail passes through Plav and nearby Gusinje, with stages leading over high passes into Albania's Valbona Valley and Kosovo's Rugova Gorge. Even if you're not hiking the whole trail, several day stages starting from Plav offer world-class mountain trekking through remote valleys and over high passes with panoramic views.

Ali Pasha Springs (via Gusinje)

Just 15 km south of Plav, near the village of Gusinje, the Ali Pasha Springs (Ali-Pašini Izvori) are one of Montenegro's most extraordinary natural phenomena — vivid turquoise karst springs erupting from beneath a sheer cliff face. The springs are easily combined with a Plav visit and should not be missed. See our Gusinje guide for full details.

Fishing on Plav Lake and Mountain Streams

The Plav area is one of Montenegro's best destinations for freshwater fishing. Plav Lake holds brown trout, carp, and chub, while the mountain streams flowing down from the Prokletije are rich with wild brown trout. Fishing permits are available locally and are very affordable. The Lim River, which flows through Plav, is another excellent fishing spot. Local guides can be arranged through guesthouses for those wanting to explore the more remote streams.

Day Trip Suggestions

Gusinje and Ali Pasha Springs: The small mountain village of Gusinje, just 10 km south, is the gateway to the Ali Pasha Springs and the Grbaja Valley. Allow a full day to explore the springs, hike into the valley, and experience the village's unique atmosphere.

Hridsko Jezero (Visitor's Lake): This stunning glacial lake at 1,970 metres is one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in the Balkans. The hike from the trailhead above Plav takes 4-5 hours one way — make it a full-day excursion and start early.

Andrijevica and the Komovi Mountains: The small town of Andrijevica, 30 km west, sits at the base of the Komovi mountain group, which offers challenging hiking to peaks above 2,400 metres. The views from the Komovi summits rival anything in the Alps.

Where to Eat and Drink

Restoran Jezero — Overlooking the lake, this family-run restaurant serves freshwater fish (trout and carp from the lake), traditional burek, grilled meats, and home-style Montenegrin dishes. Their tavče gravče (slow-baked beans) and home-baked bread are simple but excellent. In summer, the lakeside terrace is the best spot in town for a meal.

Local bakeries: Plav's bakeries serve some of Montenegro's best burek and pita (filled pastries with cheese, spinach, or meat). Fresh from the oven in the morning, they cost under a euro and are enormously satisfying — perfect fuel for a day of hiking.

Guesthouse meals: Many of Plav's guesthouses offer home-cooked evening meals featuring local specialities: slow-roasted lamb, stuffed peppers, fresh salads from kitchen gardens, homemade bread, and the inevitable homemade rakija to start. These family meals are often the culinary highlight of a Plav visit — ask your host about dinner when you check in.

Tea and coffee culture: Plav's Ottoman heritage is evident in its coffee culture. Several small cafés in the old town serve traditional Bosnian-style coffee (bosanska kafa) prepared in a copper džezva and served with sugar cubes and rahat lokum (Turkish delight). Taking an hour to sit and sip coffee in one of these cafés is an essential Plav experience.

Where to Stay

Accommodation in Plav ranges from small guesthouses and family-run pensions to apartments near the lake. The experience tends toward the authentic and personal — expect warm hospitality, home-cooked meals, and local knowledge freely shared. Options are more limited than in coastal resorts, so booking in advance during the July-August peak is wise.

Several guesthouses are located along the lake shore, offering direct water access and mountain views. In town, simple pensions provide clean, comfortable rooms at very affordable prices (typically 20-35 euros per night including breakfast). For the best selection of vetted properties, check montenegro.com for available properties in the Plav area, where you can find authentic mountain hospitality at excellent value.

Practical Tips

• Bring cash — ATMs exist in Plav but can be unreliable. Most small businesses, guesthouses, and restaurants in Plav and surrounding villages don't accept cards. Withdraw enough cash in Podgorica or Berane before arriving.
• Carry good hiking boots, rain gear, and warm layers if venturing into the Prokletije, even in midsummer. Weather changes rapidly above 1,500 metres, and hypothermia is a real risk in sudden storms.
• The road from Plav to Gusinje and onward to the Albanian border at Valbona is a stunning 20-minute drive through dramatic mountain scenery — don't miss it even if you're not crossing the border.
• Mobile phone signal is patchy to nonexistent in the mountains. Download offline maps (Maps.me or Google Maps offline) before heading out on any trails.
• Locals are incredibly hospitable — if invited for coffee or rakija by a Plav resident, it's polite to accept. These spontaneous encounters are often the most memorable part of a visit.
• The Peaks of the Balkans trail requires no special permits for the Montenegrin sections, but if you plan to cross into Albania or Kosovo, carry your passport and check visa requirements.
• Stock up on hiking supplies (snacks, water purification, first aid) before leaving Podgorica — options in Plav are limited.
• If planning to hike to Hridsko Jezero or other high-altitude lakes, consider hiring a local guide through your guesthouse. The trails can be faint in places, and local knowledge is invaluable for weather, route finding, and wildlife awareness.
• Photography opportunities are extraordinary. The lake at sunrise, the Prokletije peaks at sunset, and the atmospheric old town all reward a photographer's patience.